1989-2001 Yamaha Zuma
Welcome to the parts guide for the 1989-2001 Yamaha zuma! There are a few different variations of models, but most parts between years are interchangeable.
Bone stock, these scooters have a respectable amount of torque, and a top speed of about 38-42mph.
ENGINE UPGRADES :
On the Prebug Zuma models, if you're looking for a little bit more power we usually recommend CVT upgrades, and an exhaust system. If you're looking for more power from there, you can also add a carburetor, and big bore kit to get a LOT more power! There are lots of different variations of parts for these bikes, we will go over all the different options and applications!
Variator kits : this is the first upgrade we recommend to do on almost any scooter, and the 1989-2001 zuma is no exception!
Our favorite options include :
- Malossi Multivar : This kit is great for a stock scooter as a first upgradeand will work great as well with a big bore kit, and other upgrades! I usually recommend this variator to be used in conjunction with the polini belt. This variator includes a white (soft) contra spring as well.
- Top Performances GP trophy kit : this is a sweet kit, that doesn't break the bank! It includes a new drive face, belt, and hardware as well. This is the most budget friendly kit available, and works best on 49cc setups, and mild 70cc kits.
- Stage6 "sport pro" variator : Another premium kit, including a variator, and medium torque spring, I would recommend this for those doing mild-race 70cc setups
Exhaust Systems : If you already did a variator kit, and are looking for some more oomph, or maybe want to add some nicer aesthetics, and braap to your zuma, you may want to consider an exhaust. We will go over all of our favorite options in this section. We also recommend upgrading the variator, contra spring, and clutch springs with any expansion chamber style exhaust.
- Yasuni R : This is one of our favorite, go to exhausts for the zuma! We've been using these on personal and customer bikes for years, and have never looked back! This is recommended on 49cc bikes, and mild/sport 70cc builds.
- Stage6 MK2 Pro replica : This exhaust is very similar to the Yasuni R, with a little bit more torque. I recommend this on the same applications as the Yasuni R, so mild 49cc and 70cc setups!
- Yasuni C16 : If you're looking for a powerhouse, the c16 is a great option, but please note, it will be a bit harder to tune, and revs to a much higher RPM than the R or MK2. I would recommend this on higher end sport setups, and mid race setups. It is also strongly recommended to run a reinforced crankshaft with this exhaust.
- Malossi Wild Lion / Polini Hi Speed : I recommend these as a stock replacement, for 49cc setups, or SUPER MILD 70cc setups. You get a slight boost in power, but changing clutch springs, and rollers usually isn't required with either of these exhausts.
- Polini For Race 4 : this is another race pipe, but features a bit more mid/high end RPM from the C16. I would recommend this on a MHR/Corsa/MXS/MK2 setup!
- Malossi Flip : Recommended on mild 70cc setups, and 49cc bikes, this is a slightly more budget friendly pipe, that gives a solid bump in power, but not quite as much as the Yasuni R or Stage6 MK2
- Leo Vince GP EVO 3 : This is a very stylish, expensive, and torque oriented exhaust for your zuma, I would recommend this on 49cc and mild 70cc.
- Yasuni C10 : This is in my opinion the best all around pipe, for a mid/sport setup on the zuma! I have one on my personal bike, paired with an athena sport kit, and I am very impressed with the all around power!
Cylinder kits : The Prebug Zumas have a bunch of options for cylinder kits, we're going to go over the most popular kits, and our favorites!
- Malossi Sport kit : this is a great, durable, cast iron entry level kit, with Italian quality! This kit works great with the stock carburetor (however a upgraded carb will give a huge performance gain), Stock, and any of the listed performance exhausts up to the Yasuni R level!
- Polini Contessa : This is another nice italian crafted cylinder, with a moderate bump in power from the Malossi sport kit, also recommended to be run. This kit is budget friendly, but I would recommend using a 17.5-21mm carburetor with it, and an exhaust like the Malossi Flip, Yasuni R, or possibly even the Yasuni C10
- Stage6 Streetrace : This kit has a solid amount of power, and an upgraded crankshaft would be advisable with this kit, along with a 19mm or bigger carburetor, and a nice exhaust, like the Yasuni R, or better. This kit makes a lot more power than the Contessa or Malossi Sport, but in my opinion the pistons and cylinder are not quite as forgiving/durable.
- Polini Corsa : This kit makes comparable power to the Streetrace, but is in our opinion much more durable, these kits are tried and true, and have taken lots of abuse on our personal scooters for several years, and are still running very strong! I would recommend a crankshaft, intake, exhaust, and carburetor with this kit as well.
- Athena Sport kit : This kit makes a nice amount of power, torque, and RPM. I personally have been using this cylinder for about a year, and I'm really impressed, this pairs very well with a 21mm carburetor, sport transmission, and Yasuni. This kit could be used by a beginner, or experienced rider looking for reliable solid power!
- Stage6 MK2 : This cylinder kit is aluminum, and uses a similar casting to the MXS cylinders but with two piston rings. An upgraded crankshaft, carburetor, intake, exhaust, etc are REQUIRED to run this kit. This is NOT an entry level kit, and we recommend having some experience tuning CVT scooters and carburetors before trying this setup!
- MXS Sport / Race kit : This is another high end, racing kit, we would recommend the same setup as the MK2, but possibly with an upgraded inner rotor ignition as well. This is another setup that is not intended for beginners, and we would recommend having a few scooter builds under your belt before trying this kit out!
- Malossi MHR : This kit makes a TON of power, and should also only be used by experienced tuners! Racing ignition, carburetor, intake, exhaust and transmission are recommended with this setup!
Intake manifolds : A big valve intake on your zuma is a good idea to get for any 70cc setup where you intend to run a larger than stock carburetor! It allows more fuel and air to get into your engine!
- Polini big valve intake : This is a great, high quality intake that allows you to run bigger (Minarelli AM6) reeds, and allows you to run a 12mm carburetor up to a 21mm carburetor. it also allows you to still run the OEM airbox!
- Stage6 Big valve intake : This intake is my personal go-to, the only downside is that you can no longer use the stock airbox. It uses standard Minarelli horizontal reeds, and you can even upgrade to Vforce Reeds as well! This includes all adapters needed to run a 12mm up to a 28mm carburetor! You can also get extra boots to run larger carbs!
Carburetors : we recommend upgrading the carb to get the maximum potential out of your 70cc build, they make a huge difference, with cooling, and ease of tuning as well!
- Polini CP : This is the tried and true carb we like to run on the zuma, it features a 47mm air filter mount, but a 48mm filter will also work fine. These use 6mm Keihin main jets, and Polini specific pilot jets. The throttle cable should also be replaced for good measure, most of the time we use the knob on the carb, and just reach down to turn the choke on, but you could also use a choke cable adapter if desired, with a remote choke cable or the stock choke cable (1997+ models only!) Main Jets | Pilot Jets | Throttle Cable | Choke Cable Adapter | Air filter
- Dellorto 17.5mm : This carb should be used on mild sport setups ONLY, along with the stock airbox, this is a direct replacement for the stock carburetor on the 1997-2001 models, for the 1989/1990 models you will need a throttle and choke cable. This carb is nice for sleeper setups, where noise is a concern Main Jets | Throttle Cable (only needed for 1989/1990) | Choke Cable
- Polini PWK carburetor : These should only be used on racing setups, for most builds they will be too big! These use Keihin Main jets, and pilot jets, and have a 48mm air filter connection. An upgraded throttle cable will be needed to run this setup! Main Jets | Pilot Jets | Air Filter | Throttle cable
Clutches : With a performance exhaust, even on a stock cylinder, we recommend upgrading the clutch springs, once you start to make some real power, the stock clutch can be too weak, and should be upgraded. The bell is also an important upgrade, as it handles the grip, and cooling of the clutch.
- S23 Clutch springs : we recommend using these in the stock clutch when doing a sport exhaust on a stock or mild 70cc setup. If you have a two shoe clutch, only two of the three springs must be used.
- Malossi Fly Clutch Kit : This clutch is non - adjustable, but is a nice performance upgrade, with solid grip! Includes a steel bell, and white (soft) springs. These use malossi specific springs. Sport Clutch Springs | Race clutch springs
- Polini race clutch : This is a nice, fully and easily adjustable clutch, wolid grip, and works great on virtually any setup. Two sets of springs are also included!
- Malossi delta clutch : debatably the best clutch for the zuma! Best grip on the market, a little bit of a process to adjust, though. This clutch also features an anti twist plate, which helps on racing setups where you have super stiff springs! Race Springs | Sport springs
- Stage6 Torque Control MK2 clutch : This is one of the best and most adjustable clutches for the zuma, features an anti twist plate like the Malossi Delta, but adjustment like the Polini! The best of both worlds! We recommend picking up the race springs for this clutch as well!
- Polini Evo Bell : This bell is light, but still has great cooling properties! This works great with the malossi, stage6, or polini clutch!
- Stage6 Vented bell : This is a nice bell, for a nice price as well! It is steel, and features the "wing cooler" design.
- Malossi MHR Wing Bell : This is my favorite bell option, featuring anti glaze slots/holes, extra venting, and produces the best cooling across the board! I have personally bought 5 of these for personal bikes over the years, when experiencing clutch overheating issues!
Crankshafts : We recommend upgrading the crankshaft on most setups that are more extreme, as the stock crankshafts are known to fail when making 10+ horsepower. When replacing the crankshaft, make sure to get new main bearings, and oil seals!
- Malossi MHR RHQ crankshaft : This is the highest quality crankshaft available for the zuma, it features full circle lobes (HPC). This works best for Midrace, and Full racing setups, and is rated for up to 16000RPM.
- Stage6 Pro Replica Crankshaft : The Pro replica is a solid budget option, for higher end sport builds, like the streetrace or the corsa kit. This is an HPC crankshaft.
- Polini 4race Crankshaft : This is a solid crankshaft for those that desire torque, unlike the malossi/stage6 cranks, this one is an LPC, and offers improved torque, rather than higher end power.
Belts : The belt could be one of the most overlooked parts on the scooter, there are lots of different belts, some longer, wider, and some that are more durable than others!
- Polini Belt : this is one of the best belts you can get for the standard transmission on your zuma! It works great with the malossi variator, and the stage6. These belts are also very durable, and last a long time.
- Malossi Zuma Belt : This is a solid runner up to the Polini belt, available in Kevlar and in standard rubber!
Gears : Gears are definitely not required on the prebugs, and will reduce the low end power of your bike as well as help with top speed, and help keep the RPMs down as well. There are a few different ratios, but 90% of the time, 13/44 is what is recommended! Don't forget to get a new gasket!
- Polini 13/44 gears : these are great high quality gears by polini in the recommended 13/44 ratio.
- Malossi 13/44 gears : the Malossi gears are also a great option, you can't go wrong with these or the polini!
- Top performances secondary gears 15/41 : Not really needed on most setups, but if you're still looking to reduce your RPM after doing the 13/44 primary gears, these are a great option! New gasket and rear axle are also included!
Upgraded ignition systems : For most applications, the stock stator and flywheel work excellent. If you're doing a full race setup, you may need to consider an inner rotor ignition kit. Please select the right ignition for your build carefully, as some do not feature a charging system to run a battery or lights. you will have to set the timing on these ignitions, and this should be only done by someone who knows what their doing!
- MVT "Digital Direct" Inner rotor system : This is the only ignition system with an advance system, that allows for charging. This complete kit includes a CDI, and coil.
- Malossi Inner rotor system : This igntion system does not have a charging system, but will allow you to get the most power output from your engine! This includes an optional flywheel weight, adjustable CDI, and coil.
BRAKE UPGRADES :
Depending on the year of your zuma, there are a few brake upgrades that can be done, to add some stopping power!
1989-1997 : for the front drum brake models, you can upgrade the brake shoes to NCY or stage6, which makes a solid improvement, or even new OEM brake pads. It's also crucial to make sure that all of the components are working properly and are in good condition. This includes lubricating all the pivot points, having a good lever and cable. Swapping the front end to disk brakes is also an option, the best way to do this would be getting all the components from a '98-'01 model, and swapping over.
1998-2001 : The rear drum brake is identical between the 89-97 models, and the 98-01 bikes, with the exception of using different levers and cable. For the front brake, the easiest upgrade would be a 2 piston NCY caliper, and stainless steel brake line. There are two different brake rotors as well, a 4 bolt and a 3 bolt.
REAR Hydraulic disk brake swap : This is a rather costly upgrade, but is totally worth the investment if you want the best brakes for your zuma. Sourcing some parts will be required, but we'll go over everything you need.
You will need a rear wheel/hub/rotor from a disk brake Minarelli scooter, this will be the hardest part to source, some of the applicable scooters include : 1999-2001 Aprilia sr50 (Be SURE that it is from a Minarelli model!) Malaguti F12 (MUST BE A REAR DISK MODEL, NOT DRUM BRAKE!) and Yamaha Aerox.
You will also need a caliper, caliper mount, master cylinder, and brake line. Please contact us to get these parts, they cost ~$600. To fit the caliper and adapter, you will need to machine/grind the case and do some custom work to make it fit. YOU WILL NOT BE ABLE TO SWAP BACK TO DRUM BRAKES AFTER DOING THIS CONVERSION, WITHOUT REPLACING THE ENGINE CASE!
FRAME / SUSPENSION :
Rear shocks : the rear shock is the easiest suspension upgrade that can be done on the zuma! Just two bolts to remove, and reinstall your fancy upgraded shock! NOTE : The OEM length of the rear shock on the zuma is ~250mm. If you add a longer shock, the main center stand may be unusable due to the higher ride height.
- Motoforce 250mm Shock : This is a solid budget option for your bike, very similar to the OEM shock on the zuma.
- Forsa 245mm shock : Very Similar to the motoforce shock, but alternativley, this one is all black.
- Jayaco 250mm Shock : Another budget option, available in a couple of colors, this is a slight upgrade from OEM, but will perform a lot better than an original blown out shock.
- YSS Pro-X shock : Available in 250, and 280mm, this is a slightly more premium option from the motoforce and jayaco.
- NCY 265mm Shock : Great shock for the money, adjustable preload, and height!
- NCY 280mm shock : This shock features a 280mm length, along with adjustable preload, and dampening! Possibly one of the best options out there!
- Malossi RS1 Shock : Great middle of the road option, with adjustable preload! Available in 280 and 310mm.
- Malossi RS24 Offset shock : Top of the line shock, measuring 265mm. This shock features adjustable dampening, and preload.
Front suspension : For the drum brake models, to improve the suspension, you must swap over to disk brakes, the best way to do this would be to source a set of OEM wheels, and get our replacement triple tree and forks.
For the 1998-2001 (disk brake models), you can get replacement forks if your fork stanchions measure 30mm in diameter. If they are not 30mm (26mm), you will need a triple tree as well.
NCY Forks are also an option, with our fork shims. You will need ruckus/dio forks, along with axle shims to run the 10mm axle. You will also need a brake caliper adapter, and custom wheel spacers. The OEM speedometer gear will not be compatible with these forks, either.
Handlebar Upgrades :
Naked bars / motocross handlebars are another common upgrade, that completely change the feel and seating position of the bike. There are a couple of stem options, along with a few recommended handlebar options.
STR8 Handlebar Clamp/Stem : this is our go-to, on the prebug we typically will recommend the short option, you may need to do custom brake lines, cables, etc. with the long clamp depending on what handlebars you go with! The difference between the short/tall is ~1 inch. This clamp will allow you to run any 7/8 handlebars.
NCY Bar Clamp : This bar clamp is a more premium option, and you may like the style better. This is comparable in height to the short STR8 stem. This clamp also accepts most 7/8 handlebars.
FLY Aluma-Steel bars : These are a solid option for those balling on a budget, we recommend this setup for stunts/wheelies! You may need to cut a little bit of each end of the bars off for your cables to fit.
FLY Aero-flex handlebar : A little bit more of a premium option, while still not breaking the bank! Very similar / same bend as the aluma-steel bars. You may need to cut a little bit of each end of the bars off for your cables to fit.
Downhill bars : another budget option, these are pretty close in width and height to stock, with the short stem.
STR8 Naked bar kit : Available in a few colors, this saves you a couple of dollars from buying the downhill bars, and stem separately!
Grips : There are lots of grips that will work on the zuma! Check them out here!
This concludes our guide on the 89-01 yamaha zuma, we also have lots of recouces on our youtube channel! If you have questions about products, please feel free to give us a call at 503-206-6905